Located on the northeastern tip of Tenerife, the Parque Rural d’Anaga is a mountain massif classified as a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. It is home to one of the world’s last remaining laurisilva forests. You’ll discover steep, densely vegetated landscapes, deep ravines and isolated villages. A world in complete contrast to the rest of the island.
In this article, we take you on a tour of the must-see places in the Anaga Rural Park: miradors, hiking trails, villages and beaches. We’ll also be sharing our practical tips for organizing your visit.
This opinion is completely independent, based on our experiences. We visited the region anonymously, making our own choices and paying our bills in full.
Content
Visiting Anaga: essential tips + map
Anaga Rural Park: map
The TF-12 main road crosses the Anaga Rural Park from west to east, from San Cristóbal de La Laguna to the north coast. It winds its way through the mountain range, between barrancos and crests, and serves most points of interest. The roads are winding and narrow in places, especially in the eastern part of the park, where fog is a regular visitor. We advise you to drive carefully and to allow extra time.
To help you find your way around, here’s a map of Anaga with our favorite stops:
Driving time:
- San Cristóbal de La Laguna to Cruz del Carmen Visitors Center = 20min
- Santa Cruz de Tenerife to Cruz del Carmen Visitors Center = 30min
- Cruz del Carmen Visitors Center in Taganana = 25min
- Taganana to Playa de Benijo = 10min
- Costa Adeje to Cruz del Carmen Visitors Center = 1h15
- Puerto de la Cruz to Cruz del Carmen Visitors Center = 50min
Must-see attractions
If you don’t have much time and can only make 3 stops, take your pick:
- Sendero de los Sentidos (from Cruz del Carmen Visitor Center)
- Mirador Pico del Inglés
- Taganana and Playa de Benijo
And if you have a little more time, the El Pijaral trail (Bosque Encantado) is an experience not to be missed, but a permit is required.
Essential advice: when, how…
Before detailing our favorite stops in the park, here’s the essential information you need to know before heading there.
- Opening hours: The roads and park can be visited at any time of the year. The Cruz del Carmen Visitors’ Centre and the Sendero de Encantado have special opening hours.
- Price: Access to the park is entirely free.
- A permit is required to hike the El Pijaral trail (Bosque Encantado). Access is limited to 45 people per day. Book several months in advance on the official website. There are fines of up to €600 for non-compliance.
- Get there early! We can’t stress this enough. The parking lots are small and fill up quickly, especially in summer. We recommend arriving before 10am.
- Wear good hiking boots. Trails can be wet and slippery, especially in the laurisilva forest.
- Take along a waterproof jacket or windbreaker. Anaga’s microclimate is humid, and fog can appear at any time, even in fine weather on the rest of the island. Temperatures are cooler than by the sea.
- Take water and snacks with you, as refreshment points are rare in the park.
- Stay on the marked trails. The park is a protected and fragile area.
- Make sure you have enough fuel before you climb. There is no gas station in the park.
How to visit Anaga Rural Park
Option 1: Rent a car
Advantages: this is by far the best way to discover Anaga. You can stop at any viewpoint, explore the villages at your own pace and adapt your itinerary according to the weather. The classic route forms a loop along the TF-12 road, from La Laguna towards Taganana, then on to the beaches of Benijo and Almáciga.
Disadvantages: roads are narrow and winding, visibility reduced by fog in places, and parking limited in high season. You need to be comfortable with driving.
OUR TIPS TO RENT A CAR IN Tenerife
- Compare prices on our preferred platform: DiscoverCars – one of the best rated sites.
- If you’re planning to explore the mountains, don ‘t take the smallest cars. A more powerful engine will be more comfortable.
- But don’t take too big a car either, as some roads are narrow.
- There’s a lot of demand and it’s an island, so book early.
Option 2: guided tour
Benefits: a guide explains the park’s geology, flora and history. Some tours include transport, hiking and sometimes lunch. We found the guide to be a real added value in understanding the unique laurisilva ecosystem.
Disadvantages: you don’t choose your stops and the duration at each point is imposed.
See guided tour options
Option 3: Public transport
Several bus routes (guaguas) serve the park from La Laguna and Santa Cruz:
- Route 76: La Laguna – Afur
- Route 275: La Laguna – Las Carboneras (Taborno)
- Route 276: La Laguna – Pico del Inglés
- Route 946: Santa Cruz – Taganana – Almáciga (Benijo)
- Route 947: Santa Cruz – Chamorga
Most of these routes pass through Cruz del Carmen, where you’ll find the Visitor Center and the best trails. Check the timetables on the TITSA website, as frequency is limited.
1. The TF-12 road and its watchtowers
Why do we love?
Why do we love?
The TF-12 road is much more than a simple route linking the park’s various points of interest. It’s an experience in its own right. We were struck by the diversity of moods that follow one another as the kilometers go by: tunnels of vegetation where the branches form a canopy over the road, bends that suddenly open onto dizzying panoramas towards the ocean, then mist-shrouded stretches where the laurisilva forest seems to close in around you. The road winds its way between barrancos and crests, constantly rising and falling, and every bend holds a surprise.
We advise you to take it easy, as the views change depending on the direction of traffic and the time of day. You can stop at many viewpoints along the way.
Advice
- Duration:
Allow 30 minutes for the ridge walk from Mirador de Jardina to Mirador Bailadero, excluding stops.
Allow 30 min to descend to San Andres (many hairpin bends) - The passages under the trees are particularly photogenic in the morning, when the light filters through the canopy.
- Even if there are narrow passages, there are rails and protections. We weren’t stressed.
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2. Sendero de los Sentidos – Anaga’s must-see trail
Why do we love?
This is the most popular trail in Anaga Rural Park, and we can see why. In just a few steps, you’re plunged into a world apart: the laurisilva forest envelops the path with its moss-covered trees, giant ferns and light subdued by the canopy. We were captivated by the atmosphere here, with its light mist and birdsong.
The trail is well-marked and punctuated by information panels that help you understand this million-year-old ecosystem. The first part of the route uses wooden footbridges accessible to all, while the second includes a few climbs and steps, with no major difficulties.
Advice
- Duration: 45min to 1h for the full 1.3km loop
- Difficulty: Easy, suitable for families
- Departure point: Cruz del Carmen Visitor Center
- Parking: Average (fills up fast, arrive early)
- Facilities: Visitor center, restaurant, toilets, information point
- Tip: If you’re a hiking enthusiast, this short trail can easily be combined with other routes starting from the same point.
3. Cruz del Carmen Visitors Center
Why do we love?
It’s the ideal starting point for exploring the park. The Visitor Center provides maps, trail information and road conditions. We picked up some useful information that helped us plan our day.
The adjacent mirador offers spectacular panoramic views with Mount Teide in the background. It’s also the starting point for the trail we’ve just seen.
Advice
- Duration: 15min to 1h depending on your interest
- Parking: Average (fills up fast in high season)
- Facilities: Information center, restaurant, toilets, viewpoint
- Tip: Start your visit to Anaga with this stop to get your bearings
4. Bosques Anaga
Why do we love?
With the exception of the Encantado trail, you’re free to hike any trail. So along the way, whenever you are inspired by an area of the forest, stop! Just take a few steps and you’ll be surrounded by trees.
The forests of Anaga are among the last vestiges of laurisilva in Europe. As you go deeper into these woods, you leave the seaside Tenerife behind and enter a completely different world. Moss-covered trees, giant ferns and lichens hanging from the branches create a dense, silent atmosphere.
We were struck by the humidity here: even in dry coastal weather, mist seeps between the trunks and deposits droplets on every leaf. This is the result of the trade winds that push the humid Atlantic air against the mountain range. This natural phenomenon maintains a microclimate conducive to the survival of this million-year-old ecosystem. And if you listen carefully, you’ll hear the songs of several species of birds unique to this area.
Advice
- Access: Several trails allow you to discover the laurisilva, from the shortest (Sendero de los Sentidos, 1.3km) to the most immersive (El Pijaral, 6km, permit required).
- Equipment: Bring shoes with grippy soles, as the ground is often wet and slippery. A waterproof jacket is essential, even if the sun is shining on the seaside.
- Tip: The atmosphere in the forest varies greatly depending on the time of day and the weather. On a foggy day, immersion is total; on a clear day, the light filtering through the canopy offers a different but equally striking spectacle Respect:
- Stay on the marked trails. The ecosystem is fragile, and some protected areas are strictly off-limits without authorization.
- More specific suggestions for hikes below.
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5. Bosque de Encantado – El Pijaral
Why do we love?
The Bosque Encantado, also known as the El Pijaral trail, is the most emblematic hike in Anaga Rural Park. The trail crosses a 300-hectare protected area where the laurisilva forest reaches its densest and oldest expression. You’ll feel as if you’ve entered a world apart: ferns glow in neon colors, trunks disappear beneath layers of thick moss, and gnarled branches intertwine above the path to form a plant tunnel. The mist, almost permanent at this altitude, adds an extra dimension to the route.
The path leads to the Mirador Cabeza de Tejo, where the landscape suddenly changes. After the enclosed world of the forest, the view suddenly opens out onto the coastal cliffs, Roque de las Ánimas, Almáciga and the Benijo area.
Advice
- Starting point: El Pijaral area
- Distance: 6km (loop)
- Duration: 2h30 to 3h
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Please note: a permit is required, as access is limited to 45 people per day. Please book several months in advance.
- Fines of up to €600 apply in the event of infringement
- Parking: Small, at the trailhead
- Facilities: None on the course. Bring water and snacks
6. Mirador Pico del Inglés
Why do we love?
This viewpoint offers one of the most extensive panoramas in the park. On a clear day, the view is of the Anaga rocks, Santa Cruz de Tenerife and the Teide volcano in the background. We were lucky enough to observe the clouds… as you can see from the photo above. It’s a question of luck.
The play of clouds passes from one side of the massif to the other. The site is particularly beautiful at sunset, when the low-angled light gilds the ridges. Before reaching the viewpoint, don’t miss the Camino Viejo al Pico del Inglés, an ancient road cut into the rock, its walls covered with moss and vegetation. This passage is very photogenic.
Advice
- Duration: 15 to 30min for the mirador, more if you explore the Camino Viejo
- Parking: Small parking lot at the end of the road. The Camino Viejo is closed to cars, so park on the main road and continue on foot.
- Facilities: None
- Tip: Fog is very common at this altitude. If visibility is poor when you pass, try to return later in the day, as conditions change quickly.
HAVE FUN IN TENERIFE: activities
7. Road TF 134
Why do we love?
The TF-134 road descends from the heights of the massif to the north coast of Anaga, towards Taganana and the beaches of Benijo and Almáciga. This section is one of the most spectacular in the park. We were struck by the rock formations lining the road: sheer walls sculpted by erosion, rock spires rising above ravines, and geological strata of varying hues testifying to the massif’s volcanic history.
With every hairpin bend, the landscape changes. We pass from the dense forest of the heights to a more sparse and arid vegetation, then the views open out onto the Atlantic Ocean and the villages clinging to the slopes.
Advice
- Duration: 20-30min drive from El Bailadero to the beaches, excluding stops
- Road: Narrow and very winding, dotted with blind bends. Drive carefully and use the horn on the tightest bends.
- Parking: A few rare places to stop along the road. The Mirador Risco Amogoje, located on a hairpin bend, offers a short stopover.
8. Taganana – Anaga’s most charming village
Why do we love?
Taganana is Anaga’s most striking village. Perched in a setting of rugged mountains, it boasts traditional Canarian architecture and a tranquil atmosphere. We took the time to wander through its narrow streets, observing the whitewashed houses and (rickety) agricultural terraces that sculpt the surrounding slopes. The 16th-century Iglesia de las Nieves is worth a visit for its interior. The village is also a good starting point for reaching the beaches of the north coast, including Benijo and Almáciga.
Advice
- Duration: 30min to 1h to stroll through the village
- Parking: Small, a few spaces in the village
- Facilities: Several restaurants serving traditional Canarian cuisine
- View: Panorama of the mountains and bancales from the access road
- Tip: Take advantage of your time in Taganana to have lunch at a local guachinche (see our “Where to eat” section).
9. Roque de Las Bodegas
Why do we love?
This small coastal town has significant historical importance: its port was once used to load European ships with wine produced in the region. We found it a pleasant spot for a short break by the sea. The natural setting, between rocks and waves, recalls the wild character of this northern Anaga coast.
Advice
- Duration: 15 to 30min
- Parking: Small
- Also nearby is the Playa Casa África restaurant, renowned for its pulpo frito (fried octopus).
- Tip: The sea can be rough on this coast, so take care when approaching the shore.
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10. Playa de Benijo
Why do we love?
Playa de Benijo is one of Tenerife’s wildest beaches. Its volcanic black sand, the rocks rising out of the ocean and the sheer cliffs in the background create a striking backdrop. We enjoyed the raw atmosphere of this beach, far from the resorts of the south of the island.
But beware: the sea is often rough and currents can be strong. Swimming is risky and we advise caution.
Advice
- Duration: 30min to 2h depending on your requirements
- Parking: Small parking lot at the top, then downhill on foot (5min)
- Facilities: None on the beach.
11. Playa Almaciga
Why do we love?
Located just off Playa de Benijo, Playa de Almáciga is a lesser-known option on Anaga’s north coast. Its ambience is different: more extensive and a little more sheltered than its neighbor. We appreciated its local, quiet character. The volcanic black sand, the rocks dotting the shoreline and the Anaga mountains as a backdrop create a raw setting.
Advice
- Small parking lot near the beach
- A few small restaurants in the village of Almáciga, where you can sample fresh local fish.
- As on the entire north coast of Anaga, the sea can be rough and the currents strong. Check conditions before getting in the water and observe swimming flags.
12. Igueste (just outside the park)
Why do we love?
Igueste de San Andrés lies just outside the boundaries of the Anaga Rural Park, on the southeast coast of the massif. Yet the village is fully in keeping with the atmosphere of this part of Tenerife. Nestling at the end of a narrow barranco between sheer cliffs, this small fishing village has preserved its isolated, unspoilt character.
We enjoyed strolling through its quiet streets, lined with traditional Canarian houses and banana trees. The setting is reminiscent of the inland hamlets of the park, but with the ocean as a bonus.
Advice
- Duration: 30min for the village, 1h to 2h more if you reach the coves on foot
- Small parking lot at the entrance to the village. In high season, it can be saturated
- Facilities: A few small bars and restaurants in the village, local atmosphere
- Swimming: The coves accessible on foot are wild and unsupervised. The sea can be rough, so check the conditions before swimming.
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3 beaches at the foot of Anaga on the south coast (outside the park)
On the south coast of Anaga, you’ll find some beautiful beaches. Technically, they are outside Anaga Park, but as they are surrounded by massifs, they seem to be part of the park. And you might as well combine them!
Playa de las Teresitas
This magnificent beach of golden sand imported from the Sahara is a real gem in the region. We particularly appreciate its gentle, gradual slope as you enter the water. It’s perfect for a family outing with swimming, water polo, beach volleyball, pedal boats and other modern facilities. The setting is spectacular, with the ocean stretching as far as the eye can see, and the mountains as a backdrop. We also recommend a walk with your feet in the water to the end of the black rock jetty to admire the panorama. Its calm waters are ideal for trying out water sports: have you ever tried stand-up paddling? – see activity details.
Playa de las Gaviotas
This beautiful black sand beach is a little corner of paradise surrounded by impressive cliffs. We were won over by the natural, unspoilt setting of Playa de Las Gaviotas. Although the TF-121 road leading to it is narrow and winding, it’s well worth the detour. We fell under the spell of this haven of peace, cut off from the world. Equipped with a mask and snorkel, you can go snorkeling along the coast. We recommend stopping off at the viewpoint on the TF-121 road to admire the spectacular view of the beach.
Playa Igueste
A must-see surfing spot on Tenerife, this pebble beach captivates with its raw, wild beauty. Frequented mainly by hikers and surfers, it is more a place for observation than for swimming. We also noticed a sign indicating that the area to the east of the beach was closed to swimming. Head to nearby Playa del Llano for a safer launch. However, the site offers a fascinating spectacle when the surfers challenge the waves!
The pools at the foot of Anaga on the north coast
Similarly, on the north coast you’ll find swimming pools with views of the massifs, even if they’re outside the park.
Piscina Bajamar
The Piscina Bajamar is another option, also on Tenerife’s north-east coast. It offers a less wild experience. There’s more concrete and construction, but the piscies are wide and very well secured.
And, as you swim north, you’ll see the green mountains of Anaga Nature Park!
We were seduced by this design, which perfectly combines safety and natural beauty.
There’s also a children’s pool.
Piscina Punta del Hidalgo
The Piscina Punta del Hidalgo is a good example of the balance between human development and natural beauty on Tenerife. This semi-natural pool offers a safe swimming experience while preserving the wild charm of the coast. The constantly replenished seawater is exceptionally clear, allowing you to observe the local marine life. The setting is simply stunning.
The atmosphere is both lively and relaxing, making this an ideal place to spend a day with family or friends.
Other walks from Anaga
Anaga Rural Park is first and foremost a paradise for hikers. Its trails run through ancient forests, along ridges and down to secluded beaches. Here are the most remarkable routes.
Bosque de los Enigmas
- Departure point: Mirador de Zapata or Visitor Center
- Distance: 5km (loop)
- Duration: Approx. 2 hours
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate
- Why to visit: An alternative to the Sendero de los Sentidos for those seeking a longer immersion in the laurisilva. The circular trail allows you to discover other facets of Anaga’s forest ecosystem.
Camino de las Vueltas (Cruz del Carmen – Taganana)
- Starting point: Casa Forestal de la Cruz del Carmen
- Distance: 8km (complete loop)
- Duration: 3 to 4 hours
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Interest: This trail links the laurisilva forest to the village of Taganana, descending through varied landscapes. If you don’t have time to do the whole loop, the first 20 minutes are enough to give you a good overview.
Barranco de Afur – Playa de Tamadite
- Starting point: Afur
- Distance: 3km (one way)
- Duration: 1h30 to 2h (one way)
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Points of interest: From the village of Afur, the last hamlet accessible by car, the trail descends a barranco where water often flows, to the isolated beach of Tamadite. The natural setting is remarkable, and the contrast between the green gorge and the wild beach rewards the effort of the descent (and the ascent!).
Roque de Taborno
- Starting point: Taborno village
- Distance: 3.5km (loop)
- Duration: 1h30 to 2h
- Difficulty: Moderate to difficult
- Interest: A short but intense trail around the Roque de Taborno, nicknamed “Tenerife’s Matterhorn” for its characteristic shape. The panoramic views along the way are remarkable.
Roque Bermejo
- Starting point: Chamorga
- Distance: 3.6km (one way)
- Duration: 1h30 to 2h (one way)
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Why: This trail leads to the extreme northeast of Tenerife, an isolated hamlet accessible only on foot or by boat. The path leads down a barranco from Chamorga towards Faro de Anaga. On arrival, a small beach awaits you. If you’re lucky, a small bar will be open for a well-deserved drink.
Ruta from Taganana to Playa de Benijo
- Starting point: Taganana
- Distance: Variable (2 to 3 hours’ walking)
- Duration: 2 to 3 hours
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate
- Why to choose this route: It links the village of Taganana with Playa de Benijo, one of Tenerife’s wildest beaches. Ideal for combining hiking and discovering the black volcanic coastline.
And many more…
Other interpretive trails and self-guided tours allow visitors to discover the area’s traditions and history. Downloadable audios are available on the park’s official website. See also the AllTrails website for a complete list of hikes.
The laurisilva forest: a unique ecosystem
The Anaga laurisilva forest, whose name means “laurel forest” in Latin, existed over 66 million years ago, covering a large part of the world’s tropical zones. Successive ice ages caused these forests to retreat towards southern Europe, the northwest coast of Africa and the Macaronesian archipelagos (Azores, Canaries, Cape Verde, Madeira and the Wild Islands). Periods of drought, deforestation and human pressure have further reduced their extent. Today, laurisilva forests persist mainly in these archipelagos and on the coasts of Chile, southeastern Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay.
At Anaga, the winds blowing in from the Atlantic create a humid microclimate ideal for the survival of this ancient forest. Moisture condenses into mist when it comes into contact with the mountains, providing constant nourishment for the vegetation.
There’s more to the park than its forest. These lands have been inhabited and cultivated for centuries. The bancales (agricultural terraces), the isolated hamlets between the mountains – some of which were only connected by road 30 or 40 years ago – bear witness to a lasting cohabitation between man and nature. It is this combination of natural and cultural values that earned Anaga the status of Rural Park, subsequently recognized as a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO.
Frequently asked questions
Is Anaga Rural Park worth a visit?
Yes. The Parque Rural d’Anaga is one of the Canaries’ most remarkable natural areas. Classified as a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, it is home to one of the world’s last remaining laurisilva forests, spectacular viewpoints, traditional villages and wild beaches. If you’re visiting Tenerife, we consider it a must-see stop, as essential as Teide National Park.
Is a visit to Anaga free?
Yes, access to the park and the vast majority of its trails and lookouts is completely free. Only the El Pijaral trail (Bosque Encantado) requires a free but compulsory permit, to be booked in advance. Guided tours organized by agencies are not free of charge.
How long does it take to visit Anaga?
Allow at least half a day (3 to 4 hours) for a drive with a few stops at viewpoints and the Sendero de los Sentidos. For a more complete visit, including hikes, villages and beaches, we recommend booking a full day.
What’s the best route?
The classic route departs clockwise from San Cristóbal de La Laguna, via the TF-12 road. You first pass by the Cruz del Carmen Visitor Center (where you do the Sendero de los Sentidos), the Mirador Pico del Inglés, then descend to Taganana. You finish with the beaches of Benijo and Almáciga, before heading for Santa Cruz along the coast (via Playa de Las Teresitas for a swim). We find this order the most logical, as it places the Visitor Center at the beginning of the route.
Is the weather a problem?
Anaga Rural Park has its own microclimate. Even when it’s sunny on the rest of the island, the massif can be covered in mist. This is not a disadvantage: the mist is an integral part of the laurisilva atmosphere and helps to make the forest trails particularly immersive. On the other hand, it can reduce visibility at watchtowers. If a watchtower is blocked when you pass, come back later: conditions often change within a few hours.
Is Anaga family-friendly?
The Sendero de los Sentidos is ideal for families, including those with young children. The first part, on wooden walkways, is accessible to all-terrain baby carriages. For longer hikes, an ergonomic carrying mochila will be essential if you have a baby or toddler. The watchtowers are accessible by car and require no special physical effort.
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO tenerife
- Best of
What to do in Tenerife
Most beautiful towns and villages
Most beautiful beaches
Best natural pools
Most beautiful landscapes
Most beautiful roads
Amusement parks
Best boat tours (coming soon)
Secret places, off the beaten track (coming soon)
- Practical advice
25 tips for a successful trip to Tenerife
How to get around
How to rent a car in Tenerife
Driving tips
Best excursions (coming soon)
Where to stay in Tenerife
Itineraries: 3 days – 4 days – 5 days – 6 days – 1 week – 10 days
- The must-dos
Dolphin watching in Tenerife
Teide National Park
Anaga Rural Park (coming soon)
La Orotava
Garachico
Village of Masca
Pyramids of Güimar
